Off The Chain - Dog Fighting Documentary

This is a documentary on dog fighting. This documentary is in six parts and was taken from savethecreatures's Channel on YouTube.

WARNING: THIS DOCUMENTARY CONTAINS GRAPHIC AND DISTURBING IMAGES

Please help stop dog fighting in your area.

Knock Out Dog Fighting program by For Pits Sake

These are a couple of videos by For Pits Sake, on their Knock Out Dog Fighting program. The second video is 7.5 minutes long, but well worth watching. Please help stop dog fighting in your area.

Dogs Speak Out Against Dog Fighting from For Pits Sake on Vimeo.

Knock Out Dog Fighting program from For Pits Sake on Vimeo.

Microchipping Your Pet

This is "Dodger." Last week I found "Dodger" running along one of the busiest roads in the area. "Dodger" had already crossed 2 equally busy roads, dodging cars along the way. Unfortunately, he did not have a collar. No problem, I figured I'd just get his microchip scanned and contact his owner. OK, now there's a problem. He doesn't have a microchip! This poor little guy was professionally groomed, well fed and very well behaved. He was obviously someone's pet and I imagine they were missing him dearly.

I worked the entire day and much of the next trying to find this little guy's owners. In the end I couldn't find the owner so I called a local Bichon Frise Rescue, since I already had two dogs and one was not to happy with "Dodger" being in the house. The Rescue took "Dodger" and 2 days later there was an ad in the paper for a lost little white dog who had been received as a Mother's Day present. The Recuse contacted the person who ran the ad and it was "Dodger's" owner! "Dodger" was reunited with his family that day and the story had a happy ending. Unfortunately, many of these stories don't have happy endings and the dog is never reuinted with it's family. All because the person the dog depends on didn't bother or thought it was too expensive to get it implanted with a microchip.

Unfortunately, 1 in 3 dogs get lost during their lifetimes, and according to the American Humane Society, only 17% of them are ever recovered.

How can you beat the odds of this happening to your pet? Number one priority: Have your pet wear an ID tag with a phone number where you can be contacted. Unfortunately, many people forget to check their dog's tags on a regular basis--they often rust, get scratched, or even come totally off, leaving no way for anyone who finds the dog to find you. More and more pet owners are opting to up their chances of recovering a lost pet by having their veterinarian implant an identifying microchip.

Exactly what is a microchip?
A microchip is a tiny computer chip--about the size of a grain of rice--that your vet can implant between your pet's shoulder blades. Each microchip has a unique number, which is entered in an international database. Veterinary hospitals, animal shelters and humane societies have microchip readers, scanners that can quickly be run over the dog's shoulder blades, allowing the scanner to read your dog's individual microchip number. The number allows the person scanning your dog to know which database your pet is registered with. They can then call a toll-free number, and the database will match your pet's number with your name and phone number so you can be contacted.

Is it truly a permanent method of identification?
Yes, one microchip should last for your pet's lifetime, and once you have sent in the initial registration, your only future responsibility is keeping the registry informed of any changes in your contact numbers. Although a properly implanted chip cannot be lost or damaged, very rarely a microchip will migrate. It is a good idea to have your veterinarian scan your dog each year when they go for their annual exam, to make sure that the chip is still in the correct location.

Is microchipping a new practice?
No, microchipping pets has been a common practice in Canada and Great Britain for many years, and becomes more and more popular each year in the United States. These tiny computer chips are actually quite amazing, as they can hold large amounts of information. There is no worry about duplicate numbers, as there are so many possible combinations that there are billions of identification numbers available--more than enough to make sure each pet has a unique number.

Will it hurt your pet?
No, the procedure is simple and fairly painless, not requiring any anesthesia. It is much like getting a vaccination and most animals show absolutely no reaction at all.

Worried about cost?
The average cost to have a microchip implanted falls between $25 and $50. Some veterinarians discount this rate if it is being done at the same time as the pet is being spayed, or put under anesthesia for something routine such as dental work. Humane societies in some areas also offer microchip clinics from time to time, much like a rabies clinic, where the procedure may be offered for as little as $10 or $15.

There may also be a small one-time fee to register your information with the database, but in the long run, the microchip process is still much less expensive than all the things you would need to do if your pet was lost without any identification.

Are there any downsides?
The only downside to a microchip is that this form of identification will not work unless your pet is taken to someone who has a scanner. Animal shelters and veterinarians are offered the microchip readers for free, or for a very small fee, so 99% of them have readers available. If your pet is picked up by an individual who is not familiar with microchips (and thus does not take your pet in to be scanned) then of course your dog cannot be identified through their chip. This is why it is still recommended that all dogs wear collars with ID tags. Your microchip should also come with a tag for your dog's collar, which has a toll-free number listed. If someone should find your dog and call that number, they can call this number and give the identifying number on the tag.

Should your pet become lost, be sure to notify your microchip provider. Some will send out an e-mail alert to animal shelters, veterinary clinics and other members of their network that are within a 25 mile radius of where your pet was lost (this is sent out immediately when you call them to tell them the pet is lost). They may also have available a Lost Pet Poster service and other benefits.

The advantages to a microchip far outweigh any inconvenience or minor expense. To find out more, give your veterinarian's office a call today.

Source: Adapted from the American Animal Hospital Association

Socializing Your Dog

Socialization is the first step in raising a well-behaved dog. During the first weeks of their lives, puppies go through a critical period of development. When a puppy is exposed to new people, places, and situations in a positive way during this period, there’s a good chance he’ll be calm and accepting when he experiences them again later in life.

What Is Socialization?
Socialization is just what it sounds like – socializing. Your puppy should meet and interact with as many types of people, animals, and environments as possible. By the time he reaches about 4 months old, your puppy should learn to accept being petted by strangers, meeting other dogs, being handled by a veterinarian or groomer, and meeting a wide variety of people.

When Should Socialization Take Place?
Puppy socialization should take place when your dog is between 8 and 16 weeks old. Because puppies have not received all their vaccinations, you should talk to your veterinarian about when it’s safe to expose your puppy to new people and places.

Why Is Socialization So Important?
Socializing your puppy helps him to become a happy, healthy, and well-behaved member of your family. Properly socialized puppies are less likely to develop behavior problems as they grow into adults. Dogs who don’t get early socialization may react with fear or aggression when they are exposed to new things. It is much easier to teach your puppy to accept new things now than it is to retrain him after bad habits develop.

How Should a Puppy Be Socialized?
Socialization should involve as many people and situations as possible. Introduce your puppy to a wide variety of people, including men, women, children of all ages, people in wheelchairs, men with beards, and people wearing all kinds of clothing (e.g., uniforms, sunglasses, raincoats and umbrellas, hats and gloves, etc.). Before your puppy has gotten all of his vaccinations, you can begin to socialize him by inviting people to your home to meet him.

Handling exercises are another important part of socializing. Think the ways your dog may be handled in his lifetime – a child could pull his tail, a veterinarian might need to restrain him, you may need to hold his feet to clip his nails. If you get your puppy used to being handled in a gentle manner now, you will be less likely to have trouble handling him when he has reached adulthood.
Once your veterinarian approves taking your puppy to new places, you can begin socializing him outside your home. This is a good time to get him used to riding in the car, meeting other dogs, visiting the groomer and pet supply store, and taking walks in your neighborhood.

Socialization should always be kept positive. Allow your puppy to approach new things in his own time. You can use treats and praise to encourage your puppy to approach unfamiliar people and objects. Never push your puppy past his comfort level or he may become fearful of the things you are trying to get him to accept.

Can a Dog Trainer Help With Socialization?
Puppy training classes are a great way to enhance your puppy’s socialization. Dog trainers usually refer to these classes as “Puppy Kindergarten.” They should touch on the usual concerns of the new puppy parent, like housetraining and curbing destructive behavior. A good puppy kindergarten will also help your puppy to get comfortable with new people and being handled. Your veterinarian or local animal shelter should be able to help you find a good puppy kindergarten class.