No method of identification is perfect. The best
thing you can do to protect your dog is to be a responsible owner. Keep current
identification tags on your dog at all times, microchip your dog as
reinforcement, and never allow your dog to roam free. If your dog does become
lost, more identification can increase the odds of finding your beloved
companion. There are a number of things you can do to prevent pet loss, or to
find a dog, once it has become lost.
Prevention is key
If you have socialized and trained your dog, and
continue to give him ample opportunity to exercise and venture beyond the
boundaries of the back yard with you (walks, dog class, pet fairs, dog sporting
events, etc.), he will be less likely to want to venture off on his own. If you
have neutered or spayed your dog, he or she will be less likely to wander in
search of doggie dates. If you have seen to the dog’s basic needs for food,
water, shelter, mental stimulation and safety, he will be less likely to need
to wander to find it elsewhere. In other words, SOCIALIZE, TRAIN, NEUTER, and
CONTAIN.
Socialization helps
A well
socialized puppy is a well adjusted adult dog. By taking your puppy out
regularly to see and smell new sights, environments, people, and other animals,
he will become used to these things and not become frightened by them. It is
crucial that this socialization take place when the puppy is in his critical
socialization period (7-12 weeks). It’s pretty much too late to try to make up
for lost work after that time. That’s why they call it a critical socialization
period. A well-adjusted dog will be less likely to startle and bolt at the
appearance of something strange.
Training helps
Training your dog to come to you when called,
and to respect boundaries is an important step to keeping him at home, where
he's safe. Teaching the dog to come to you for cookies, praise, walks, games
and other favorable things will produce a strong desire to obey that command.
If you ever call your dog to you to lock him up, end his fun, punish him, shove
a pill down his throat, or put him on leash, he is more likely to associate
“come” with having something bad happen to him, and he’ll want to run the other
way. Once your puppy or dog is responding favorably to your voice in general,
and particularly his name, and the command “come,” or “here,” you can use it to
call him back from the edge of the property, or the areas in which you don’t
want him to go. Always reward this choice (he could have ignored you, and ran
away) with a yummy treat. You can also teach your dog to come to a whistle.
Another type of training
you’ll want to do is a “Leave it” command. This is a type of impulse control,
which can do wonders to keep your dog out of trouble. “Leave it” means to
ignore whatever it is that you’re looking at and thinking about. You can use it
to disengage your dog from thinking about chasing a squirrel into the woods, or
from running into the street after a frisbee that the wind took way too far
into the wrong direction (please don’t play Frisbee with your dog anywhere
near a street or other hazardous environments). Many dogs are lost each
year, because they initially ran off after something interesting, and then just
got lost or disoriented when they found themselves in a strange place.
Neutering helps
Dog’s bodies have been programmed to meet up
with members of the opposite sex at every opportunity, for purposes of
breeding. The female announces her “availability” with the scent of her heat
periods. Every male for miles around is aware that she is in heat and is ready
to “accept visitors.” The male’s hormones compel him to follow the scent. His
powerful sense of smell lets him follow it to the source. He can tell the age,
physical health and stage of the heat cycle the female is in, just by smelling
her urine. He's programmed to seek out and have sex with as many females as
possible whenever possible. If it sounds a little like all intact dogs think
about is SEX, well that’s basically because that is what they mostly think
about. Neutering removes the hormone-producing ovaries in a female dog, and the
hormone-producing testicles in a male. Without these, the female will not
experience a heat cycle, and will not be looking to accept a mate. The male
will not be constantly wondering where his next sex partner will come from. I
actually think that most “wandering” occurs because dogs are in search of a
breeding partner. All of this unpleasantness is eliminated when you have your
dog neutered. The dog’s mind is free to think about other things (like YOU, his
parent), when it is not being ruled by its hormones, and obsessing about sexual
matters.
Containing helps
Containment means keeping your dog safe,
cared-for and healthy, as well as keeping him confined to your yard. It means
seeing to your dog’s needs in every way. It is your job as the “dog parents” to
provide a life for your dog that is complete with a balanced diet, health care,
exercise, mental stimulation, safety and love. If your dog has enough food,
water, shelter, care and physical and mental exercise, and feels safe and
loved, why would he want to leave (unless maybe you have neglected to
socialize, train or neuter him)? If on the other hand, your dog is living a
prisoner’s existence tied or fenced alone in the back yard, it’s no wonder he
seeks a change of scenery. It would make sense for him to take off every time
he was able to escape.
There are many things you can do to enrich your life with your dog. You could
participate in agility or therapy dog visitations. You can teach your dog
tricks, or refine his manners so that you can take him on trips with you. A
life of boredom is worth trying to escape from. A dog should be a member of the
family--and can be, with proper training. If your dog is escaping from your
back yard or running out the door every chance he gets, it's because he’s
trying to put a little “spice” in his life.
How to find your dog once he ends up missing:
When did you first discover your dog
missing?
The answer could give you a clue as to why the
dog left and where the dog could be. If it was about the time the school bus
let the kids out, maybe he followed some kids home. If it was about the time
the hot air balloon passed overhead, maybe the dog was so terrified that he
climbed out of a 6’ fence, to run for his life.
Was there a “motive.” that would have caused
your dog to run off? Has he been trying to dig out for the last two weeks,
ever since the neighbor started a compost heap on the other side of the fence
(and they just threw food on the heap)? Was he over-stimulated by some wild
animal or passer-by, and snuck through a gate not shut properly by a delivery
person? Was he trying to escape to get back to a former owner. Was he bored
senseless and chewed through his rope to leave the monotony of his back-yard
prison behind? Was he trying to escape some sort of abuse? If the dog has the
motive, he only needs to wait for the opportunity to come along.
Did
your dog have an opportunity?
Did you leave the door open? Did someone else leave the gate
open? Did your dog sneak out the door when company was over? Did your dog
discover a hole under the fence (or make one)? Did your dog’s tie-out chain
break? Did your dog squeeze through an open window in your car while you were
in a store or restaurant? (For those who have read previous blogs are on the
HRD4A FB page, you know how I feel about anyone who would leave a dog in a
parked car. JUST DON'T DO IT). Did you leave your door unlocked, and a
friend or relative stopped by and accidentally let the dog out? By analyzing
the motive, opportunity and means your dog had of escaping, it might help you
to track down his whereabouts.
Where does your dog like to go?
Your dog may not go far from home. Before you
panic, search the house carefully. He could be sleeping under your bed and he
didn’t respond when you called him. Search every hidey-hole you can think of.
Then ask yourself, “Where does my dog like to go?” If your dog does not
normally stray from home, perhaps he has gotten himself “trapped” somewhere.
Search in nearby locations before going far and wide. Do any hunters set animal
traps near you? Did someone leave an exposed hazard, like a lid off the septic
tank, or the gate open to a backyard pool? Could he have gotten into a storm
cellar or under a crawlspace? Was he wearing a collar that could get caught and
trap him there (or anywhere else)? Chances are, he went to an area familiar to
him, like a neighbor’s house, or the park around the corner. If he’s not in a
familiar place, possibly he followed another dog, a child, or other animal to
another location. Where do the other dogs, children, or other animals hang out?
Is there a shopping center near you, where the dog would seek out friendly
people, or food? Is there a farm near you, where the dog would go to watch the
sheep? Think of what could have attracted your dog… a flock of birds, a person
on a bike, an ice cream truck?
When you’ve searched everywhere for several hours, it’s time to get serious
about admitting that your dog might be lost. There are some things that you
should always keep handy, like a recent color photo of your dog and a strip of
your phone number to attach to the bottom of the picture or flyer (the kind
people can tear off to call you). Of course, if you’re REALLY prepared, you’ll
have a “lost dog” flyer all made up that you can just drop a picture into and
start stapling on telephone poles. Get your posters made up and post them
everywhere.
Contact everyone you know that could help you find your dog: Animal Control –
The very first call you should make is to the pound, shelter, humane society,
or whoever else is in the business of rounding up stray animals in your county.
You may even call the police, though it is not their job to help you find your
dog, and they may tell you so. But, they may also offer to help. Veterinarian –
Heaven forbid that your dog gets injured while gone, but if he’s not used to
roaming the streets unaccompanied, chances are he could get hurt, and he might
end up at the vet. If you have informed the vets offices that your dog is
missing and may turn up there, they will know to call you if some good
Samaritan finds your dog injured along the roadside. Utilities workers – While
you’re driving around the neighborhoods, if you happen to see a phone worker,
paper deliverer, garbage collector, or utilities person, be sure to ask them
about your dog. They drive all around and go everywhere, and often know the
neighborhoods quite well. School children – Kids notice everything, and they’re
usually more than happy to help. Make sure you give them a poster, so they’ll
know you’re not just some pervert trying to kidnap them with the “Help me find
my puppy” story. While they’re cruising around on their bikes, scooters or
skateboards, you’ll have a lot more pairs of eyes keeping a look out for your
dog.
Create a "Lost Pet" flyer:
It is recommended that you stick with one design. Repeated
viewings of a consistent message are more likely to stick in people’s minds.
You’ll need to include a lot of info on your flyer, so use your limited space
wisely:
- Start with a big, bold headline that people can read from a distance: “LOST
DOG”.
- Under the headline, put a photo of your pet. Make sure the photo is
well-represented after the picture’s been photocopied or printed. List your
dog’s
breed, sex, color, age, weight, distinguishing features, and where and
when he
was last seen. It is very important that your pet is described
accurately.
- Provide your name and two phone numbers; yours, of course, and a friend or
family member’s in case you cannot be reached.
Blanket the neighborhood with your flyers in hand:
(and hopefully, a crew of supportive helpers). Some good
places to post your flyers include:
- Dog runs and parks
- Pet supply stores and pet grooming shops
- Veterinary offices
- Various commercial establishments, such as grocery and convenience stores,
gas stations, Laundromats, bars, cafes and restaurants.
- Cover lampposts and trees extra heavily in the areas where you think your
pet was lost, as well as busy commercial and pedestrian sections of your
town.
- Around schools, at kids’-eye level. Children can be more observant than
adults, especially when it comes to animals.
Please note; you should always ask
permission before posting your flyers!
Use the Internet:
The Internet was made for networking. Send descriptive emails about your lost
pet to your local friends, colleagues and family members, and ask them to pass
on the info to anyone they can. Post messages to animal forums and message
boards run by groups based in your area—lots of parks and dog runs have online
communities.
Travel Packet:
You should also keep a set of information in
your vehicle, especially when you’re traveling. If you get into an automobile
accident with dogs in the car, chances are that they could exit a broken window
or smashed door. You could be unconscious and unable to see to the recovery of
your pets. A “lost dog” packet should consist of a recent photo of your dog,
what name he answers to, the name of your vet (in case the dog is injured), any
medication the dog is taking, instructions for what to do if your dog is injured,
your home address and phone and alternate contact phone number (include cell
phone numbers). Give as much information as possible with regard to capturing
your dog (like “just open any car door, and he’ll jump in”, or “he will do
anything for hot dogs,” or “he prefers women and will run away from men”). This
packet should be kept in a prominent place in the front of your vehicle, like
the dashboard. This is where the police or emergency medical personnel will
look when they enter your car. If you make up the travel packet and the wanted
poster before you ever need it, you won’t be running around in a panic, not
knowing what to do or what information to include when your dog actually
becomes lost.
Hopefully, you will never lose your dog. It’s a
very scary thing. If you are prepared, it will help you get your dog back
sooner.
Most
importantly, Don’t Give Up! Many lost animals have found their way back home.
