At your local shelter are healthy, loving pets waiting for a family. Going home with a new family can be the best day of their lives. Give a pet a chance today and make it the best day of his or her life. Not only will you save a life but you'll free up much needed space for another pet to have a chance at a new life.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Finding Your Lost Dog






 

No method of identification is perfect. The best thing you can do to protect your dog is to be a responsible owner. Keep current identification tags on your dog at all times, microchip your dog as reinforcement, and never allow your dog to roam free. If your dog does become lost, more identification can increase the odds of finding your beloved companion. There are a number of things you can do to prevent pet loss, or to find a dog, once it has become lost.
 
 
Prevention is key
If you have socialized and trained your dog, and continue to give him ample opportunity to exercise and venture beyond the boundaries of the back yard with you (walks, dog class, pet fairs, dog sporting events, etc.), he will be less likely to want to venture off on his own. If you have neutered or spayed your dog, he or she will be less likely to wander in search of doggie dates. If you have seen to the dog’s basic needs for food, water, shelter, mental stimulation and safety, he will be less likely to need to wander to find it elsewhere. In other words, SOCIALIZE, TRAIN, NEUTER, and CONTAIN.

Socialization helps
A well socialized puppy is a well adjusted adult dog. By taking your puppy out regularly to see and smell new sights, environments, people, and other animals, he will become used to these things and not become frightened by them. It is crucial that this socialization take place when the puppy is in his critical socialization period (7-12 weeks). It’s pretty much too late to try to make up for lost work after that time. That’s why they call it a critical socialization period. A well-adjusted dog will be less likely to startle and bolt at the appearance of something strange.

Training helps
Training your dog to come to you when called, and to respect boundaries is an important step to keeping him at home, where he's safe. Teaching the dog to come to you for cookies, praise, walks, games and other favorable things will produce a strong desire to obey that command. If you ever call your dog to you to lock him up, end his fun, punish him, shove a pill down his throat, or put him on leash, he is more likely to associate “come” with having something bad happen to him, and he’ll want to run the other way. Once your puppy or dog is responding favorably to your voice in general, and particularly his name, and the command “come,” or “here,” you can use it to call him back from the edge of the property, or the areas in which you don’t want him to go. Always reward this choice (he could have ignored you, and ran away) with a yummy treat. You can also teach your dog to come to a whistle.

Another type of training you’ll want to do is a “Leave it” command. This is a type of impulse control, which can do wonders to keep your dog out of trouble. “Leave it” means to ignore whatever it is that you’re looking at and thinking about. You can use it to disengage your dog from thinking about chasing a squirrel into the woods, or from running into the street after a frisbee that the wind took way too far into the wrong direction (please don’t play Frisbee with your dog anywhere near a street or other hazardous environments). Many dogs are lost each year, because they initially ran off after something interesting, and then just got lost or disoriented when they found themselves in a strange place. 

Neutering helps
Dog’s bodies have been programmed to meet up with members of the opposite sex at every opportunity, for purposes of breeding. The female announces her “availability” with the scent of her heat periods. Every male for miles around is aware that she is in heat and is ready to “accept visitors.” The male’s hormones compel him to follow the scent. His powerful sense of smell lets him follow it to the source. He can tell the age, physical health and stage of the heat cycle the female is in, just by smelling her urine. He's programmed to seek out and have sex with as many females as possible whenever possible. If it sounds a little like all intact dogs think about is SEX, well that’s basically because that is what they mostly think about. Neutering removes the hormone-producing ovaries in a female dog, and the hormone-producing testicles in a male. Without these, the female will not experience a heat cycle, and will not be looking to accept a mate. The male will not be constantly wondering where his next sex partner will come from. I actually think that most “wandering” occurs because dogs are in search of a breeding partner. All of this unpleasantness is eliminated when you have your dog neutered. The dog’s mind is free to think about other things (like YOU, his parent), when it is not being ruled by its hormones, and obsessing about sexual matters.

Containing helps
Containment means keeping your dog safe, cared-for and healthy, as well as keeping him confined to your yard. It means seeing to your dog’s needs in every way. It is your job as the “dog parents” to provide a life for your dog that is complete with a balanced diet, health care, exercise, mental stimulation, safety and love. If your dog has enough food, water, shelter, care and physical and mental exercise, and feels safe and loved, why would he want to leave (unless maybe you have neglected to socialize, train or neuter him)? If on the other hand, your dog is living a prisoner’s existence tied or fenced alone in the back yard, it’s no wonder he seeks a change of scenery. It would make sense for him to take off every time he was able to escape. 

There are many things you can do to enrich your life with your dog. You could participate in agility or therapy dog visitations. You can teach your dog tricks, or refine his manners so that you can take him on trips with you. A life of boredom is worth trying to escape from. A dog should be a member of the family--and can be, with proper training. If your dog is escaping from your back yard or running out the door every chance he gets, it's because he’s trying to put a little “spice” in his life.




How to find your dog once he ends up missing:

When did you first discover your dog missing?
The answer could give you a clue as to why the dog left and where the dog could be. If it was about the time the school bus let the kids out, maybe he followed some kids home. If it was about the time the hot air balloon passed overhead, maybe the dog was so terrified that he climbed out of a 6’ fence, to run for his life.

Was there a “motive.” that would have caused your dog to run off? Has he been trying to dig out for the last two weeks, ever since the neighbor started a compost heap on the other side of the fence (and they just threw food on the heap)? Was he over-stimulated by some wild animal or passer-by, and snuck through a gate not shut properly by a delivery person? Was he trying to escape to get back to a former owner. Was he bored senseless and chewed through his rope to leave the monotony of his back-yard prison behind? Was he trying to escape some sort of abuse? If the dog has the motive, he only needs to wait for the opportunity to come along. 

Did your dog have an opportunity? 
Did you leave the door open? Did someone else leave the gate open? Did your dog sneak out the door when company was over? Did your dog discover a hole under the fence (or make one)? Did your dog’s tie-out chain break? Did your dog squeeze through an open window in your car while you were in a store or restaurant? (For those who have read previous blogs are on the HRD4A FB page, you know how I feel about anyone who would leave a dog in a parked car. JUST DON'T DO IT). Did you leave your door unlocked, and a friend or relative stopped by and accidentally let the dog out? By analyzing the motive, opportunity and means your dog had of escaping, it might help you to track down his whereabouts.

Where does your dog like to go?
Your dog may not go far from home. Before you panic, search the house carefully. He could be sleeping under your bed and he didn’t respond when you called him. Search every hidey-hole you can think of. Then ask yourself, “Where does my dog like to go?” If your dog does not normally stray from home, perhaps he has gotten himself “trapped” somewhere. Search in nearby locations before going far and wide. Do any hunters set animal traps near you? Did someone leave an exposed hazard, like a lid off the septic tank, or the gate open to a backyard pool? Could he have gotten into a storm cellar or under a crawlspace? Was he wearing a collar that could get caught and trap him there (or anywhere else)? Chances are, he went to an area familiar to him, like a neighbor’s house, or the park around the corner. If he’s not in a familiar place, possibly he followed another dog, a child, or other animal to another location. Where do the other dogs, children, or other animals hang out? Is there a shopping center near you, where the dog would seek out friendly people, or food? Is there a farm near you, where the dog would go to watch the sheep? Think of what could have attracted your dog… a flock of birds, a person on a bike, an ice cream truck? 

When you’ve searched everywhere for several hours, it’s time to get serious about admitting that your dog might be lost. There are some things that you should always keep handy, like a recent color photo of your dog and a strip of your phone number to attach to the bottom of the picture or flyer (the kind people can tear off to call you). Of course, if you’re REALLY prepared, you’ll have a “lost dog” flyer all made up that you can just drop a picture into and start stapling on telephone poles. Get your posters made up and post them everywhere. 

Contact everyone you know that could help you find your dog: Animal Control – The very first call you should make is to the pound, shelter, humane society, or whoever else is in the business of rounding up stray animals in your county. You may even call the police, though it is not their job to help you find your dog, and they may tell you so. But, they may also offer to help. Veterinarian – Heaven forbid that your dog gets injured while gone, but if he’s not used to roaming the streets unaccompanied, chances are he could get hurt, and he might end up at the vet. If you have informed the vets offices that your dog is missing and may turn up there, they will know to call you if some good Samaritan finds your dog injured along the roadside. Utilities workers – While you’re driving around the neighborhoods, if you happen to see a phone worker, paper deliverer, garbage collector, or utilities person, be sure to ask them about your dog. They drive all around and go everywhere, and often know the neighborhoods quite well. School children – Kids notice everything, and they’re usually more than happy to help. Make sure you give them a poster, so they’ll know you’re not just some pervert trying to kidnap them with the “Help me find my puppy” story. While they’re cruising around on their bikes, scooters or skateboards, you’ll have a lot more pairs of eyes keeping a look out for your dog. 



Create a "Lost Pet" flyer:

It is recommended that you stick with one design. Repeated viewings of a consistent message are more likely to stick in people’s minds. You’ll need to include a lot of info on your flyer, so use your limited space wisely: 

- Start with a big, bold headline that people can read from a distance: “LOST 
   DOG”.
- Under the headline, put a photo of your pet. Make sure the photo is 
   well-represented after the picture’s been photocopied or printed. List your 
   dog’s breed, sex, color, age, weight, distinguishing features, and where and 
   when he was last seen. It is very important that your pet is described 
   accurately.
- Provide your name and two phone numbers; yours, of course, and a friend or 
   family member’s in case you cannot be reached.



Blanket the neighborhood with your flyers in hand:
 (and hopefully, a crew of supportive helpers). Some good places to post your flyers include:
- Dog runs and parks
- Pet supply stores and pet grooming shops
- Veterinary offices
- Various commercial establishments, such as grocery and convenience stores, 
   gas stations, Laundromats, bars, cafes and restaurants.
- Cover lampposts and trees extra heavily in the areas where you think your 
   pet was lost, as well as busy commercial and pedestrian sections of your 
   town.
- Around schools, at kids’-eye level. Children can be more observant than 
   adults, especially when it comes to animals.


Please note; you should always ask permission before posting your flyers!



Use the Internet:
The Internet was made for networking. Send descriptive emails about your lost pet to your local friends, colleagues and family members, and ask them to pass on the info to anyone they can. Post messages to animal forums and message boards run by groups based in your area—lots of parks and dog runs have online communities.

Travel Packet:
You should also keep a set of information in your vehicle, especially when you’re traveling. If you get into an automobile accident with dogs in the car, chances are that they could exit a broken window or smashed door. You could be unconscious and unable to see to the recovery of your pets. A “lost dog” packet should consist of a recent photo of your dog, what name he answers to, the name of your vet (in case the dog is injured), any medication the dog is taking, instructions for what to do if your dog is injured, your home address and phone and alternate contact phone number (include cell phone numbers). Give as much information as possible with regard to capturing your dog (like “just open any car door, and he’ll jump in”, or “he will do anything for hot dogs,” or “he prefers women and will run away from men”). This packet should be kept in a prominent place in the front of your vehicle, like the dashboard. This is where the police or emergency medical personnel will look when they enter your car. If you make up the travel packet and the wanted poster before you ever need it, you won’t be running around in a panic, not knowing what to do or what information to include when your dog actually becomes lost.
Hopefully, you will never lose your dog. It’s a very scary thing. If you are prepared, it will help you get your dog back sooner.



Most importantly, Don’t Give Up! Many lost animals have found their way back home.


Monday, August 9, 2010

Stopping A Puppy From Biting

Recently I fostered a puppy that loved to nip and bite, since she was teething. It became a game to her as soon as she was out of her kennel. I nicknamed her crocodile since she would snap like one. After a very short period, it did become annoying and in a couple cases painful. Managing and controlling puppy biting problems can be a major challenge. If you find yourself in the same type of situation with a new puppy, these tips should help in breaking him of biting.

For most young puppies biting is a perfectly natural and essential phase to go through, especially when they are teething.

Puppies love to sink their sharp little fangs into just about anything during this teething stage, including the hands and feet of their owners. In some cases it's like you've brought a snappy alligator into your home, instead of the cuddly little puppy you had hoped for.

The good news is that most puppies can be trained to regulate and minimize the biting pretty easily. The sooner you start to educate your puppy in bite inhibition (having a soft mouth) the easier it will be - for all concerned.

There a lots of proven training methods to help correct your puppy's behavioral problems. Before I get into the specific techniques you can use to stop your puppy from biting, always keep these general dog behavior training rules in mind:

  • Puppy Socialization and bite inhibition training go hand in hand.
  • Never slap or hit your puppy in the face. This does not work! Your puppy will just think you are playing or could become afraid of you. This may even lead to some much bigger problems than simple puppy nipping.
  • The general rule to stop puppy biting problems is to always encourage acceptable behavior and always discourage unacceptable behavior.
  • While you are trying to stop your puppy from biting, never play tug of war, wrestling or chase type games with them. This only encourages the biting and nipping.
  • Whichever method you choose to train your puppy the golden rule is be consistent. This means that you and anyone else who comes into contact with your puppy must enforce your chosen strategy every time your pup takes a nip.
  • If you don't clearly communicate to your dog that the biting is unacceptable, he will not know he is doing anything wrong. It's up to you to show him what is acceptable behavior, don't just expect your puppy to know this! (You are really taking on the role of his littermates for this task).
  • Another (extreme) reason puppies can bite is if they are trying to assert their dominance over you. If this is the case with your puppy, it must be stopped immediately. When you have a dominant puppy his biting will only be the beginning of many behavioral problems.
Your goal to start with is to teach your puppy how to control the force of his/her biting. Your puppy's littermates will initiate this process and then it is up to you to continue on with it when your new puppy arrives home. This will ensure (not guarantee) that if your dog does bite someone in the future the damage will be minimized. When you have given your puppy sufficient feedback regarding the strength of his bite only then can you begin to reduce the prevalence of the biting behavior.

  1. If you catch the biting problem early on it may be easy to rectify. Just try to redirect the biting from your flesh to a toy or chew bone. For very young puppy this method is often all you'll need do. As soon as your pup starts to bite your hands just let out a firm "No!" and replace your fingers with the chew toy (or ice cube if your puppy is teething).
  2. This is probably the most popular method and my personal favorite. Make your puppy think he is hurting you each time he has a nip at you. This method replicates the way dogs sort out this biting amongst themselves. When puppies are biting and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. We can use this natural way dogs learn by letting out an Ouch! or an Arrr! every time one of our puppy's bite. The trick is to startle your dog with your voice, and then pull away and stop playing with your puppy for a while. Your pup will soon learn that when he starts to bite, his playmate (you) goes away.
  3. Teach your puppy the obedience training command "Leave It!". This method works great but is more suitable for older puppies.
  4. In bad biting cases as soon as your puppy latches onto your hand say "No!" and quickly put your thumb inside his mouth under his tongue, and your other finger under his chin. Hold it there for about 10 seconds (not too tightly). This will feel uncomfortable to your puppy plus he won't be able to bite you.
  5. Again if your puppy has a severe biting problem you can try this training technique. Put on a pair of gloves and apply a foul tasting substance to them (something your dog doesn't like). Your dog will soon learn that if he bites you, it won't be tasty! This method produces a strong negative association to your dog every time he decides to bite you. Some dogs are smart enough to realize that when you take your foul tasting gloves off, it is fine to sink their fangs into you again!
The most important piece of advice regardless of which training method you choose is to be consistent and provide the clear feedback your puppy needs to learn.